CheekyChicago

Everyone claims they know the best sushi spot in the city. From chi-chi hot spots like Japonais to hole-in-the-wall storefronts like Green Tea, Chicago definitely isn’t short on the raw fish or the hungry citizens who flock to them. And being one who could probably eat sushi five nights a week (okay, more like seven), I try to remain very democratic when it comes to choosing a “favorite.”

However, after my latest jaunt to Usagi Ya in Wicker Park, it may be safe to say that this Cheeky girl has become a little partial indeed. Usagi Ya could be called a hidden gem, but it shouldn’t be.  The vibe is hip enough for all the hipsters, the service is warm enough for the suburbanites, the sake and wine list sophisticated enough for the lushes, and the food progressive enough for even the biggest sushi snob. But on the night that I was there…it was darn near empty. This could be a very good thing for someone like me, as in no wait, speedy service, and an ever-attentive sushi chef coming by the table to take personal requests is nothing to complain about.

But this isn’t just a restaurant worth saving because it’s empty and the staff is cool. It’s a restaurant worth saving because it’s excellent. The menu is a mini-novella of options, ranging from a jalapeno hamachi appetizer with ponzu sauce to ahi tuna flatbread to (my ultimate favorite) deep fried oysters.  There are innovative salads, noodle dishes, along with fried rice and traditional Asian main entrees like Seared Chilean Bass and Teriyaki Salmon with tempura vegetables.

But it’s in the sushi where Usagi Ya shines.  Get out the tiny pencils and the paper checklist and choose from over 40 specialty maki rolls that combine traditional old-world styles and recipes with contemporary twists to each. The Red Dragon was a stand-out, made with tempura shrimp, cucumber, avocado, tuna, spicy mayo, and red tobiko on the outside. But the Fireball Roll made with tuna, super white tuna, unagi, avocado, cucumber and – um – truffle oil, with tempura crunch and wasabi tobiko was one of the finest creations I’ve seen served with chopsticks in the Chi.

One thing this sushi lover appreciates more than an exuberant amount of ginger is a good drink menu. Usagi Ya, in step with its food tome, provides something to sip for everyone. A ridiculous specialty cocktail list, a predominantly Japanese beer menu, and a highly impressive wine list contribute to over five pages of libations.

So the next time someone asks you what your favorite sushi spot in town is, wait a second before you answer. In fact, wait a few days…make your reservation…check out Usagi Ya…and then get back to them.