CheekyChicago

It’s easy to walk right by Turquoise – or at least misinterpret it – from the street. The exterior of this storefront bears no flashy sign, no expensive lighting fixtures, no uber-mod furniture. It looks like your typical, casual neighborhood joint. But, inside lays a long, cozy dining room with a glistening wood bar solely dedicated to the Roscoe Village wine-O’s and a European menu that keeps you guessing.

The menu at Turquoise reads much like your average Mediterranean mid-scale staple – with hummus and kebabs, lamb and stuffed chicken and myriad vegetarian entrees – but the dishes here are elevated with a sophistication you’d expect to find in most downtown four-star establishments.

With the ordering of dinner came wine. I was ordering fish – usually a Mediterranean specialty – so I asked our waiter to make a white wine recommendation. “Ah!” he said in his rather obscure accent, “I have the perfect wine for you! Just arrived! Not even on the wine list.” He presented a Heartland Stickelback, a 2007 Australian blend of Semillon, Chardonnay and Verdelho. I absolutely love blends, but white blends can sometimes be hard to find in mid-priced restaurants. After 2 sips, I gotta say I found my new favorite white. Best of all—it was $6 a glass! I would come back to Turquoise just for this wine alone; not because I’m cheap, but because this wine was that good.

The salted sea bass was my choice of entrée and it was definitely the right one. Presented table-side and baked in packed sea salt, our waiter splashed vodka over it, lighting a match while the entire restaurant watched my dinner flame. After the fire subsided, the waiter de-boned the salt- soaked filet and voila! A delectable piece of white, juicy, salty fish served alongside cheesy, warm potato salad with parsley and bell pepper powder. (We Cheekies never skip dessert). The rice pudding came out in a mini crock-pot of sorts; not the best presentation I have seen, but the flavors and texture were right on point. Served warm, the notes of cinnamon and cream made this a subtly sweet ending.

Turquoise fills that great niche of neighborhood mainstays, where they simply serve damn good food – plain and simple. I would definitely recommend going any time of year with anyone you enjoy being with. The outdoor patio is lovely in the summer and the dining room is warm and relaxed in the winter. You can find couples, girlfriends, guy friends, families with babies and families with grandparents noshing on baked bread and hummus, zucchini pancakes and fresh fish all while sipping great, unexpectedly cheap wine.