CheekyChicago

Spell it out in black and white: Sepia is good. It’s always been good, but thanks to new-extraordinary-bombass chef, Andrew Zimmerman, it’s even better.

You may or may not remember (probably the latter), but I reviewed Sepia many, many moons ago. I just had to go back again to see what kind of creations AZ’s been cookin’ up.

The interior design of the restaurant is as classic and paper-pressy as it’s ever been. Built in an old print shop, the restaurant screams history. As much as I love the history of this fine city, the location of Sepia is the only thing that’s antiquated. There is absolutely nothing historic about the food – this is as contemporary and novel a culinary idea as the printing press.

In typical fashion, we started with two of Sepia’s specialty cocktails: the French 75 (Hendrick’s gin, fresh lemon sour, orange bitters and topped by a Bugey Cerdon demi-sec sparkling rose) and the Sepia Mule (ginger-infused vodka, fresh lime juice and ginger beer). These were both something to write home about.

The subsequent flatbread may not have triggered a pen pal correspondence to mom, but the thin-crusted Confit Duck with Fig-Espresso Barbeque and Red Cabbage Slaw was definitely noteworthy. I thought the Sea Scallops with Sunchoke, Serrano Ham and Marcona Almonds were much more dynamic, but I could have done without the House Cured Sardines with Local Tomatoes and Olive Oil Jam. I am so not dissing on Sepia’s sardines – I simply don’t dig ‘em. My foodie date, on the other hand, loved them…and that’s saying a lot.

Have you ever in a million years heard of a pork porterhouse? I know of pork chops, pork loins, porterhouse steaks – the carnivorous list goes on and on. Never in my life have I had the beautiful pork porterhouse combination. You can stop the presses on this one – the Gunthorp Farms Pork Porterhouse with Bourbon, Peaches and Grits is one of the best pork dishes I have ever (ever) had. And you can quote me on that. The Flat Iron Steak with “Hen of the Woods” and Bone Marrow Beignets was kind of the bomb dot com too…I mean, bone marrow beignets? Decadence. Clearly, I am on no kind of diet.

Although I’m starting to fear that my overflowing affection for Moscati d’Asti might be lessening my love for sweets, our server (who could not have been more on her game – major kudos on Sepia’s service) brought us their Blueberry Cobbler with Sweet Corn Ice Cream and Lemon-Thyme Cookies. Although I don’t really like blueberries – or cobbler, for that matter – this had me doing a little dance in my seat (much to my date’s dismay). Definitely shun the more traditional dessert options and go for this seasonal, fresh, Moscato D’Asti-replacing one.

I walked out of the West Loop Sep-ian doors feeling content, full and very, very happy. Now go post that in the papers.