CheekyChicago

I was a little nervous walking into Nacional 27 the other night. Having dined there on multiple occasions over the last few years (and loving it more and more with every venture), I was skeptically curious to see what the “new N27” was all about. I call it “new” because the previous, internationally recognized head chef and part-owner, Randy Zweiban, recently departed to open a little place we all know as Province. There is no question that Zweiban can be credited for putting Nacional 27 on the nation’s restaurant radar and for its consistent ten year stretch as one of the strongest, most acclaimed dining destinations in Chicago. But wait – no more Randy Zweiban? Could this mean no more latin love affair with N27 para me?

I am happy to report that Nacional hasn’t missed a salsa beat. In fact, it may be better than I even remembered. The menu is still serving up that refined, Latin cuisine, calling on inspiration from all 27 countries of South America. Now, the way to begin your meal at any Latin hot-spot, but especially Nacional 27, is to partake in some tapas. Some must-haves are the barbeque lamb tacos; mini corn shells stuffed generously with juicy, sweet and tangy, soft-as-butter lamb and sided with guacamole perfection. The goat cheese and pumpkin croquetas (pictured) are most certainly not to be missed; tiny puff balls of flaky, crunchy dough come stuffed with creamy sweet pumpkin butter and just the right amount of goat cheese to make it super savory. The star of the tapas show is truly the hearts of palm salad: with papaya, olives and avocado, this dish could be a reason worth coming to N27 for alone. That, or the shrimp and scallop ceviche with sweet peppers and citrus…ay caramaba!

Photo by Laura M. Stolpman, Esq.

The new N27 has twisted up some of the preparations on the entrees and again, it’s right in step with Nacional’s original culinary vibe. The center cut Ahi tuna could have been one of the best pieces of chicken of the sea I have had in Chicago. Yes, it was that good. Perfectly rare in the middle and bubbling with seasoning on the outside, the accompanying components of fire-roasted corn, creamy avocado and cilantro salsa was a tango dance of flavors in my mouth. And sided with the hearty three-potato chorizo hash (a spicy, modern twist on hash browns), my meal thus far had re-solidified my love for N27 in one fell, dancing swoop.

But wait! Out came dessert. This, my cheekies, is where Nacional 27 shines. It’s also where it got super smart and let master mixologist, Adam Seger, in the kitchen. There he concocted the uber-decadent ice-cream and sorbet flight, where he pairs the frozen good stuff with (get this)… alcohol. Working left to right, we devoured the Velvet Monkey: banana ice cream, homemade velvet fallernum and house candied Brazil nuts. Then there was the Mucho Mocha: chocolate ice cream, Licor 27 and a chocolate cookie. We then moved on to the Salty-Smokey-Bittersweet: dulce de leche ice cream, caramelized house smoked bourbon and Hawaiian sea salt (my personal fave). We rounded out the ice cream food-gasm with Spice and Ice: mango sorbet, ginger-habanero liqueur and Seger’s own “7 Spice.” Did I mention we nibbled on a chocolate torte with burnt caramel whipped cream and a rum cake? Um, yeah.

So needless to say, no Zweiban necessary. (I still heart you, Randy.) Nacional 27 is still pumping out the same inspired, passionately executed cuisine with, perhaps, a touch more culinary wit and Latin flair than ever before.

Now off to the dance floor! Come check out Nacional 27 on Tuesday May 5^th (that’s tomorrow!) as Cheeky hosts our fabulous Cinco De Mayo event, and sample some of the inspiration for yourself. Tickets are $27 and include unlimited tapas and a three hour open bar. Go to www.n27chicago.com now!