CheekyChicago

Burgers, fries, hotdogs, and milkshakes.

That’s the extent of the menu at Cook County’s newest, most talked about, classic American burger joint: Edzo’s Burger Shop.

And these burgers pack a culinary school punch. The face and personality of the restaurant is counterman Eddie Lakin, a former line cook at Chicago hotspots Nacional 27 and Tru. But, tired of the finery and late nights, the culinary school graduate opted for the unassuming life of a quick-service restaurant owner and the ability to be home in time for family dinners.

And Edzo’s 70′s-inspired joint bears none of the airs and pretentiousness of Lakin’s former places of employment.  You can forget the rare meats and the aged, Italian-imported parmigiano-reggiano – Edzo’s specializes in a “back-to-basics” burger.

Edzo’s prepares burgers in two different ways (and both are irresistible). The first option is the griddled burger – a quarter-pound, flattened, and fully cooked patty available as a single, double, or triple. The second, a made-to-order half-pound char burger, is thicker and, frankly, as bloody as you like it. Ground fresh every morning, the beef is nothing fancy – American USDA choice chuck shipped straight from Nebraska. But Lakin’s apparent secret to success lies in his always-made-fresh, never frozen, and nothing-added-except-salt-and-pepper policy.  And you can customize your burger to fit your ever-changing cravings. Some toppings (such as lettuce, tomatoes, and onions) are complimentary while others (cheese, bacon, and sautéed mushrooms) are a little extra. Although the bun was unremarkable, it did not detract from the burger as a whole.  My simple, single patty, grilled burger with tomato, lettuce, onion, ketchup, and mustard was a mouth-watering trip back to the nostalgic pre-Mad Cow, pre-dieting, pre-“what is in my meat,” hamburger-loving days of youth.

While his burgers are plenty delicious, Lakin expresses more of his culinary prowess and innovation with Edzo’s fry menu. The hand-cut, twice-cooked potatoes, according to Edzo’s website, are offered in 11 different variations. But without a doubt, the crown jewel of the fry menu (and a lingering remnant of Lakin’s days in the high-brow culinary world) is the truffle fry. Powdered in truffle salt and crisped to perfection, these fries make an ideal complement to any burger or a mighty delicious stand-alone snack.

Another of the not-so-standard but oh-so-good menu items is Edzo’s original Nutella shake. An Italian import, Nutella has permeated the American diet and, apparently, the American burger shop. Even with its European ties, the Nutella shake is charmingly American – a smooth, creamy, hazelnut and chocolate lovers’ dream made with hand-dipped ice cream on an old-fashioned Multimixer spindle machine.

The delicious burgers, fries, shakes, and no-frills atmosphere have attracted quite a crowd to the Evanston-based restaurant. But even with incredibly high demand, extensive media coverage, and lines out the door, Lakin closes up shop every day at 4 pm. When I arrived to eat a late lunch at 3:30, the lines had just abated.

Home-spun American charm and delicious, made-to-order food. Despite its seemingly humble aspirations, Edzo’s Burger Shop still has that certain je ne sais quoi and is sure to be on the Chicago culinary map for years to come.

Be sure to check out Eddie Lakin’s blog, which documents his entire “man behind the burger counter” experience.