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David Burke’s Primehouse

For the Love of Meat

by Erica Bethe Levin – December 7, 2009
312.660.6000

We’ve all read the book Skinny Bitch, right? (Or, many people have – some of us don’t want our dreams of pasta bowls, hamburgers and buckets of margaritas shattered in one fell swoop.) Well, my copy is sitting unopened on my coffee table as we speak. I will venture beyond page five at some point, but I swear to myself, my chef friends and on everything that’s holy, that I will forever and ever love me some red meat. So, with that big, juicy craving in mind, I enjoyed a Sunday night with Prime himself.

From the menu: “’Prime’ is a proud, masculine, 2500 pound Angus bull that roams the rolling green pastures of Creekstone Farms in Kentucky. Prime consistently produces offspring that achieve the coveted USDA quality grade of Prime. That is why we decided to buy him and make him part of our family…”

So, right off the bat, we know that David’s cooking the good stuff. I already knew that, though, because I’ve had the pleasure of dining at the restaurant a couple times before. Although a tremendous fan for years, never have I been a bigger one than I am now. Chef Rick Gresh cooked me and my meat-loving dinner companion a meal full of variety, decadence and pure deliciousness.

The Miso Glazed Scallops with lobster fried rice and thai peppers was the first dish. This was my favorite of our four appetizers. Four. Cooked to perfection, these scallops were – for lack of a better phrase – a party in my mouth. The Kobe Beef Sashimi with mushroom chips and truffle-mayo was not too shabby of a follow-up. In fact, if nothing else, this was entertainment in a dish. The sashimi was plated on a huge piece of Himalayan salt. That’s freaking cool. The Caesar Salad is made-to-order and prepared tableside. More entertainment – perhaps DB is on to something with this. Although Chef Gresh did not automatically send us the Lobster Bisque, we requested it because we’ve had it every time we’ve come before and couldn’t leave without having it again.

Yes, the above was enough food to serve a small kindergarten glass, but the best was yet to come. Meat. Meat. Glorious meat. My mouth is salivating. More meat. We lucked out with the bone-in, lite age “South Side” Filet Mignon and the bone-in, 20 ounce 55 Day Aged Ribeye (voted best dry aged steak by Chicago Magazine last year). Both cooked perfectly rare and dripping in juice (just like I like it), I was in my own carnal – I mean, carnivorous – heaven. I have just two more words to say on the subject: meatly perfection.

Although my mom dubbed me the “Sauce Queen” when I was a little girl (due to her having to double and triple every sauce recipe), these steaks – though enhanced by the side sauces – were so delicious on their own that they barely needed any augmenting. Let me tell you, however, the béarnaise sauce (my favorite) and the truffle and horseradish mousses did not hurt matters.

I would be remiss if I allowed my above-mentioned gluttony of meats and lobster and scallops to overshadow the superb service. Ask for Scott next time you visit the Prime (my affectionate, abbreviated moniker) – he’s one of the best servers in town. Hands down.

In case you couldn’t guess, I love David Burke’s Primehouse. I always have and I always will. And, another plus is…if you’re in a serious food coma after your meal, you can always drop by the James Hotel (as DBP is housed within it) and enjoy a little stay-cation of your own. I, myself, did this a few months back and thoroughly, thoroughly enjoyed it.

In closing, I still plan on reading Skinny Bitch. I also still plan on enjoying meal after meal at David Burke’s. Because, although being skinny has been and always will be desirable, I’d rather be a red meat-enjoying, wine-drinking, dessert-indulging bitch.

About the Author: Erica Bethe Levin

Erica Bethe Levin is the Co-Founder and Editor-in-Chief of CheekyChicago.com. She loves to write, but she also really loves her dog Pippin, spaghetti, wine and Billy Joel.

Posted in Restaurant Reviews