CheekyChicago

I’m a little confused by Cuna. In fact, I think Cuna is a little by confused Cuna too. Perhaps it’s because we’re both trying to figure out what exactly it wants it to be. A loud sports bar? A low key lounge?  An up-tempo late night party scene? A culinary destination? Maybe it can be defined as all of the above…?

Since we’re Cheeky, first thing is first: the food. Which is good. In fact, some of it is outstanding.  However, some of it is frankly sub-par.   Defined as Global-inspired shareable plates, the menu is led by executive chef Kendal Duque, formerly of Sepia (which is one of my favorite spots in town), so culinary expectations were understandably running high.   While there were definite traces of his former West Loop ingenuity in his North side menu, at many points throughout my meal, I was – again – just downright confused.

Flatbreads shine with their crisp and delicate crusts and outdo themselves when Duque tops them with roasted beets, walnuts, and gorgonzola.  But the root vegetable salad with baby lettuces, parmigiano and lemon-shallot vinaigrette was forgettable at best. The sea scallop (pictured above), while perfectly cooked and paired with fresh and beautiful Brussels and wild mushrooms, was overwhelmed by the salt of the chicken jus it came dressed in. So much that it slightly burnt my tongue.  Redemption was found with the big bites, as the grilled Amish chicken (pictured below), amazingly tender and served with rich and hearty lentils and buttery acorn squash, could be one of the finest winter-warming dishes I’ve had all season. And the Ssatewing with collard greens and a cranberry pine-nut sauce was so delicious – it was gone before you could say “Sepia who?”

I am happy to report that nothing was perplexing when it came to dessert. Ice cream cookie sandwiches sound like a simple choice, but Duque elevates this standard staple by placing lip-smacking-good peanut butter ice cream in between gooey dark chocolate cookies.

The décor, with its awkwardly low booths, plastic furniture, mod red lighting fixtures and tacky art, left me a little miffed. But I found the service to be charming and laid-back enough to make none of the aesthetic matter all that much, and whoever is creating the music playlist is on top of their game.  (Anytime I hear Empire of the Sun and Phoenix in the same 30 minutes, I’m a happy camper.)

Confusion or clarity aside, it is no doubt a bonus for the north side foodies to have a Chicago chef-star  like Duque in one of their local kitchens, and Cuna is worth checking out to experience that star-power.   Definitions can always come later…