In a shrinking economy, it makes sense that China Grill would respond by shrinking their portions and prices. As a restaurant notorious for behemoth entrees and tabs, the menu shake-up is a welcome change – especially for fans of family style dining. Almost every dish is offered in two sizes with a price differential to match. However, the smaller version still trumps the average entree of most restaurants, so either arrive with a hearty appetite or accept that a doggy bag is an essential part of the meal.
Here are the highlights (and a few misses) from the massive menu:
Appetizers
Lobster Pancakes – take a favorite breakfast staple, combine lobster cooked in red chilies and coconut milk, stir-fry with wild mushrooms, and you have my favorite appetizer.
Lemongrass Crusted Tofu Tots – the 4th grade school lunch treat took a field trip abroad and discovered both tofu and seasoning. Better than you remembered and even tastier with chopsticks.
Thai Shrimp Cocktail – lackluster dish short on fruit and flavor. The shrimp didn’t even want to be there.
Salad & Accompaniments
Steak & Tomato Salad – the grilled skirt steak was on the stringy side, but the seasonal tomatoes added much-needed juiciness.
Crispy Spinach – imagine a slightly healthier, green version of cotton candy that dissolves on your tongue. Thin, flash-fried spinach brings a buttery crunch before melting away.
Entrees
Pan Seared Spicy Tuna – I think avocado makes everything better and this dish arrived with a surplus of avocado slices, along with well-seasoned strips of sashimi tuna and seaweed salad.
Duck Two Ways – in this case, two was not better than one. The “Moo Shu” style with duck confit in a spicy hoisin sauce was better than expected. Saucy, rich and stew-like, it would be a winning winter dish. The pan-seared breast in a chocolate orange sauce served as a reminder of why meat and chocolate usually occupy different sections of the menu.
Dessert
Trio of Crème Brulees – more like a tray of high-brow pudding, this was a perfect sugar fix with three decadent, caramelized, crusted options. Vanilla took the lead, followed closely by chocolate chai and ginger. A sprinkling of berries and two superfluous (but tasty) chocolate and cream cookies rounded out the dessert platter.
While a few dishes fell flat, overall the revamped menu worked on multiple levels. The sheer amount of dining options, substantial serving sizes and more wallet-friendly price points are compelling reasons to re-visit China Grill, whether for a business dinner, date night or family outing….especially when your leftovers could last for at least three lunches.
