CheekyChicago

If a chef rather than an astronomer had devised the calendar year, the year would begin in May, not January. May is the time of life beginning anew, of optimism and promise, and this spirit is revealed when the vegetables that appear are a cook’s dream come true. The fragile shade of green that infuses the entire landscape, a pale expectant hue that announces tender young buds and shoots as they sprout into being. Not coincidentally, this color also defines many of the foods of May, such as peas, fava beans, and asparagus, many of which rank among my favorites of any month.

When cooking in May, try to find some quiet time in your routine to relax and give yourself over to the tenderness of the season. When I think of this month, I envision vegetable recipes so flavorful they can stand as a course by themselves. A Quartino favorite is the Asparagus Risotto in which plump stalks of asparagus act as the perfect foil to the Po Valley rice kernels, a fully rounded dish that doesn’t seem to be lacking a thing despite the fact that there’s no fish, poultry, or meat used in the preparation.

You might wonder where one would find such idyllic inspiration in the rigid, grid-patterned arena of Chicago. The answer is the Green City Market, a diverse gathering of farmers who brave the urban jungle several times a week to set up camp on the south end of Lincoln Park between Clark Street and Stockton Drive. The market is opening May 12th, allowing you to roam the stands, smell the herbs, handle the produce, and chat directly with the farmers. After months of winter, this is a very effective and enjoyable way to reconnect with the earth.

Finally, to help you celebrate something unexpected and special for Memorial Day at Quartino, you’ll enjoy our Grilled Organic Veal Skirt Steak with Wild Arugula, Grape Tomatoes and Balsamic Syrup. It perfectly complements a chilled carafe of white or rosé wine under the shade of our patio, the ideal way to welcome the summer days ahead.