CheekyChicago

I’ve never stayed at the Sofitel, but I would be more than happy to dine there anytime. The hotel’s signature restaurant, Café des Architectes, deserves far more recognition for its excellent French fusion menu. Executive Chef Martial Noguier displays his culinary chops with expertly prepared dishes like the foie gras “torchon” with lavender and onion chutney, but he also appeases Midwestern palates with dishes that fall into familiar territory, including a tender five-hour braised short rib. You can have your croissant and eat it too.

The hamachi carpaccio comes with thin slivers of yellowtail paired with mango, red chili pepper and lemon confit. Even in the dead of winter, it’s an edible reminder of warmer weather and summery flavors. The peekytoe crab salad is equally light and refreshing, served with melon, cucumber and xeres honey vinaigrette. An inspired pairing of baby beets, goat cheese, and hazelnut vinaigrette was one of my favorite dishes, a simple salad with complex flavor. I thought the cauliflower veloute – a thick velvety soup served with a side of toasted homemade brioche bread – was the ultimate comfort food. It tasted like a dish your grandma would make…if she happened to be a pedigreed chef running a gourmet kitchen.

The walleye pike was a solid wintry dish, but not as memorable as the seafood starters. However, I’m still eyeing the homemade potato gnocchi and ahi tuna “a la plancha” for future visits. The restaurant’s pastry chef Suzanne Imaz also deserves accolades, especially for the chestnut crepes topped with butternut squash cream and the incredible chocolate salted caramel cake. The seamless blend of sweet and salty – plus a rich chocolate nougat center – made this a must-have dessert.

As part of an upscale hotel chain with an equally high-end bar, Café des Architectes more than meets expectations. The lengthy wine list, variety of cheese flights, and attentive service all contribute to a first-rate dining experience. While the restaurant might be the best place to appreciate its amenities, I’d love to experience my next meal another way – as room service.