CheekyChicago

I go out to eat a lot. Like, a lot. I will admit that all this dining madness can sometimes leave my mind a bit of a blur (and my jeans a little too tight). And while it’s no question that the Chicago dining scene is on its A-game and that this particular foodie has trouble finding fault in much, it’s rare that I walk away from an experience at a restaurant feeling absolutely floored with excitement and inspiration.

Hello, Blue 13. In my Cheeky opinion, it’s one of the best new destinations to hit Chicago. Imagine a place with the trendy sophistication of Avec, the culinary quirk of Graham Elliot, mixed with the humble vibe of a dive bar and you’ve arrived. Make no mistake, former music industry professionals (perhaps that explains my instant affection), co-owners Dan Marunowski and chef Chris Curren are not attempting to produce a cover band of a restaurant. Their passion for food and wine, attention to detail and down-to-earth hospitality has brought Chicago something totally and utterly original.

Anyone who knows me knows I have a weakness for rockers so the thematic menu, rocked-out chic décor (think tattoo paintings adorning the walls, skull candles and sexy dim lighting) and a kick-ass soundtrack had me at hello. Who would have thought the heart of fine dining coupled with the soul of the rock-world could be such a perfect duet? Well, Curren and Marunowski did. The two have created an atmosphere that demystifies upscale dining in Chicago. The service is top notch, the presentation is flawless, the cuisine is impeccable, but check yourself: attitude, pretention and self-importance will not get you a back-stage pass. The night I was there, the crowd looked less like a night at Blackbird and more like an after-party at Metro. But then there’s the menu, singing songs about poached pear salads and pineapple marinated hanger steaks? Follow me to the stage…

A.K.A. – the kitchen. The food is the “it factor” at Blue 13. Curren has developed a sophisticated, American contemporary menu that proves fine food can and should be fun. Before I ventured here, I had heard Blue 13 widely compared to Graham Elliot. A note on this: many people love GE, some don’t, while others just don’t get it. I have dined there several times and have concluded that I am a huge fan of the great Chef Bowles, but I do agree that some of his food can come off as inaccessible in its overt wackiness. Blue 13 hones in this same kind of culinary wit, delivering plates that are extremely creative and playful yet are directional and tangible enough for everyone.

The first course menu is affectionately titled “Opening Acts” and if the 3 Birds Lobster Pizza were an actual band, you’d buy its CD in a hot minute. With manchego cheese, caramelized cipollini onions, roasted garlic puree and sea salt, the symphony of these ingredients almost overshadows the generous, meaty lobster adorning the light flaky crust. Almost. The Crispy Pork Belly – tender, fatty hunks of flavorful meat comes dressed with an Asian BBQ sauce, kimchi, ginger lime broth and topped with a tempura oyster. I am now an official groupie of pork belly everywhere. And the Asparagus and Speck Salad came atop mixed greens dressed in a lip-smacking truffle oil vinaigrette. It was undeniable. I had joined the Blue 13 fan club and I hadn’t even seen the headliners yet. (Quite literally.)

The “Headliners” is the main course portion to the menu. As the lights fade to black and the crowd anxiously awaits for the star of the show to appear, one word can only be spoken: scallops. I truly, honest-to-goodness, sincerely am telling you the truth that I have never had a better scallop dish in this city. Perfectly cooked scallops rest upon manchego and sweet corn ravioli, sided with a watercress salad, spicy corn sauce and drizzled with a lemon-vinaigrette. Simultaneously rich and buttery whilst light and delicate and bursting with summertime flavors, I actually felt a little miffed I had to share this dish with my two fellow dining companions. Blue 13’s signature dish, Steak and Eggs on Acid, single-handedly defines why this restaurant is the city’s next best thing: grilled beef tenderloin comes with a sunny-side up quail egg, laid over potato and onion pierogi and decorated with wasabi and housemade steak sauce. I’m not going to divulge any further. Go check this dish out live. As they say, you must eat it to believe.

Blue 13 doesn’t skip a rock beat so turn up the volume on that last track and order dessert. The warm chocolate cake exploded with piping hot chocolate sauce from within, paired expertly with light chocolate gelato and raspberry paint. Whoever said chocolate was an aphrodisiac doesn’t know pleasure until they’ve tried this dish. That’s all I’ll say.

You do not need to be a rocker, a roadie or a groupie to know good food when you taste it. And Marunowski and Curren are there to guide you through their welcoming space and seasonal menu to remind you of just that. Keep an eye on these two rising culinary rock stars and get your ticket to their show (or just make a rezo asap) before the rest of town gets word and there’s a line around the block. That’s no pipe dream. It’s going to happen…

Check out Cheeky’s take on Blue 13’s cocktail and wine program this Friday in our Scene section.