CheekyChicago

The Elysian Hotel might look like Daddy Warbucks’ mansion, but Balsan is a restaurant even Annie could love. It’s sophisticated but not pretentious, a place where you feel equally at home sharing a pizza (from a wood-fired oven) or veal heart salad. The most expensive item on the menu is a $36 rib eye steak, but you can also indulge with a wallet-friendly burger for a mere $14. The order comes with fries, but these aren’t garden-variety spuds slathered in cooking oil. The fresh cut fries at Balsan are crispy, salty sticks of beef-fat fried goodness, delivered with a side of heirloom ketchup. If you thought good ol’ Heinz was sufficient, think again. Balsan excels at in-house preparation and the fries are just one addictively good example of their culinary competence.

Another menu highlight is the raw bar. The cobia arrives as a sashimi plate decorated with radish and grapefruit sections lightly drizzled in olive oil. The tuna and fennel is almost as flavorful and they’re both worthy starters to a long meal. When it comes to oysters, the Island Creek and Kumamoto are highly recommended. I’m a new convert to oyster-eating, but even novices can appreciate these raw beauties.

Chef Jason McLeod, who also oversees the sister restaurant Ria, serves a well-edited selection of small and large plates. In a face-off between the two portion sizes, I declare a tie. Both sections offered delicious dishes with unexpected ingredients…hello pickled quince and guanciale (unsmoked Italian bacon). I savored the Nantucket scallops, my first experience with a miniature version and hopefully not my last, along with the apple puree and chopped fruit pairing. While beet salads are everywhere, they’re not always welcome. Balsan’s wood-fired interpretation restored my faith, creating a perfect balance between Hickory nuts, goat cheese, frisee, and beets in all their glory. It was a stellar salad that I would order again and again.

The duck cassoulet, veal heart salad, and duck breast entree delivered rich, full flavors, but almost to a fault. Unless you’re a devout fan of either meat, I’d recommend sharing (leaving a little more room for another order of the fries).

When it comes to the libation side of the menu, you’re in luck. Balsan caters to both the Daddy Warbucks and Annies of the world, with everything from Three Floyds beer to high-end bubbly. Classic cocktails, sake, and a global wine list give guests an incredible array of choices. I raised a glass to Gruner Veltliner from Austria and found my new favorite white wine.

While I’m lucky to live within walking distance of the Elysian, I’d gladly trek across the city to dine at Balsan again. And this time I’m staying for dessert.