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Bali: A Cheeky Girls’ Shopping Paradise

Island of the Gods

by Lindsay Berg – August 4, 2010

With Eat Pray Love hitting theaters this month, and Condé Nast naming Bali one of the top four islands in the world, plan the ultimate girls’ getaway before everyone flocks to this tropical haven.

Ladies, welcome to your shopping paradise.  From upscale boutiques in Seminyak, to more cultural fare in Ubud, Bali offers something for every taste and budget.  The extreme heat won’t stop you from finding the perfect beach cover up, pair of sandals or cocktail dress at a fraction of Chicago’s prices. Just remember your SPF, come with an arsenal of hair products, and wander along Bali’s narrow roads as you shop and venture to ancient sites.

If you’re looking for a quiet escape, head to the less visited areas in the northeast or western sides of the island.  Here you will find black and yellow sand beaches, volcanoes and cascading, terraced rice paddy fields.  But for those looking to do some exquisite shopping, head to Ubud and Seminyak.

Where to Shop in Ubud

Start your shopping in Ubud, the cultural hub of Bali.  Ubud is centrally located and hosts a brilliant stretch of stores as you travel up JL Monkey Forest Road, across JL Dewi Sita or JL Raya Ubud, and back down JL Hanoman (great silver jewelry boutiques).  On your way, stop at the Monkey Forest.  (I suggest you do this first thing since the monkeys rip shopping bags from your hands.  Unless you’re daring, and armed with a rabies shot, do not buy the bananas at the gate – need I explain?)  Make sure to visit Threads Of Life on Jalong Kajeng for handwoven textiles and Ikat from all over Indonesia.  This fair trade boutique takes pride in local artisans, offering intimate details about every piece in the store.  My tapestry came with a photo of the weaver and a DVD explaining weaving techniques and information on her village.  Don’t expect to find goods of this caliber in Ubud’s market, but if you go, head to the less trafficked stalls upstairs – they offer cheaper prices when you barter.

Where to Stay and Spa in Ubud

While in Ubud, check out the Greenfield Hotel.  It may not be the fanciest hotel in the city (the Viceroy holds this honor), but its lovely, large and ornate rooms overlooking the rice fields provide a beautiful backdrop after a day of shopping.  The hotel offers a free shuttle service to and from anywhere in Ubud at any time, a life-saver when carrying shopping bags in the 95% humidity.  Rooms range from $28-$255, with the best deals being the $72 and $105 suites. One block away, set back from the street next to the Yoga Barn, find Zen Bali Spa. Leave your insecurities behind, prepare to be very naked, and unwind with a full body massage, scrub, foot massage, ginger tea and tropical fruit for roughly $20 – a steal!

Where to Dine in Ubud

The Balinese take great pride in their food and each dish is artfully prepared and plated.  I enjoyed the consortium of restaurants in Ubud: Café Batan Waru, Siam Sally and Terazo all offer a pamphlet that gets you 15%-off your bill.  Although on the pricier side for Ubud, two appetizers and entrees, plus sparkling water and a dessert will cost you around $20 American.  Reminder: be wary of uncooked vegetables, no matter how beautifully presented.  You’ll probably be fine, but why take the risk?  Parasites are unwelcome vacation guests.

Getting Around the Island

To navigate the surrounding areas, hire a driver.  I recommend Norman who will take you anywhere you want to go.  Fancy getting up at sunrise and hiking Mt. Batur Volcano?  He’ll take you.  Want to stop at every craft village (wood and stone carvings, silver, batik) between Ubud and Denpasar?  He’ll take you.  Want to visit dozens of temples, traditional villages, rice paddy fields and a beach?  You get my point.  Unless you want to tackle Bali’s extreme congestion and winding narrow roads (remember, they drive on the left side – stick shift only), hire a driver for the day and enjoy the view from the backseat.

Where to Swim

For a pleasurable swim, avoid swimming in Seminyak or Jimbaran and head to the beaches of Nusa Dua.  The St. Regis and Four Seasons set up here for a reason, but you can easily find nice public beaches.  If in need of a little luxury, meander over to one of these hotels for cocktails or a late lunch.  Locals flock to Sanur, but the water looks more like Long Island Sound than a tropical oasis.

Where to Shop, Dine and Drink in Seminyak

Whatever you do, stay away from Kuta.  Guidebooks lure you to this touristy beachfront, complete with mega mall, drunken Aussie surfers and unforgiving alleyways lined with tacky vendors.  Instead, head one town north to the upscale Seminyak.  Wander Jalan Rawa Seminyak and down Jalan Laksmana Oberoi, perusing boutiques along the way.  Stop at Crop for jewelry, Magali Pascal or Lily Jean for great dresses and clothing, Puspita for inexpensive batik sundresses and tanks and Disini or Bali Zen for unique home goods.  Eat lunch at organic Chandi: Modern Pan Asian Cuisine for incredible food, a great wine list, espresso bar and air-conditioning.  When you reach the end of Laksmana, just past the Oberoi Hotel (if you must splurge, this would be my vote), you’ll hit Seminyak beach.  Watch surfers ride the waves and end your evening at Ku De Ta, where sunset views blend into a sea of well-dressed patrons holding equaling beautiful cocktails.  Celebrity DJs play well into the morning, and the restaurant hosts a multitude of seating options.  I suggest reserving a table for dinner then moving to a lounge bed closer to the surf for drinks or to the hopping second floor patio.  Dress to be seen and don’t be offended when guards search your bag as you enter.

Staying in Seminyak

Stunning rooms abound, from suites with traditionally carved canopy beds, to more modern, simplistic décor.  Ignore the big names and settle into a friendly boutique hotel (this goes for anywhere on the island), many of which feature private infinity pools.  If you pay more than $250 a night, you haven’t done your research.  Book through agoda.com to save a large percentage off hotel website listings.

Navigating the Airport

Bali is a comfortable, albeit long flight via Singapore Airlines from Los Angeles or San Francisco (please allow yourself an evening in either city – you’ll regret it otherwise).  When you arrive, you need $25 in cash for your Visa.  Don’t forget, the ATM is on the far side of customs – they will hold your passport and shun you as you try to locate the ATM.  On your way out, you need 150,000 Rupiah to exit (roughly $17).  The exit fee must be paid in Rupiah and the nearest ATM is outside back through customs – so come prepared.  Most hotels offer pick-up and drop-off, though taxis run you less money; look for the sky-blue Bali taxis.

Bali caters to every vacationer – be it shopper, yogi, surfer or someone looking to relax.  You’ll find your own little world in Bali – they call it the “Island of the Gods” for a reason.  Forget about the grind of daily life in Chicago, leave your cell and worries behind and enjoy this tropical oasis.

Posted in Get Out of Town