CheekyChicago

Hidden gems are one the coolest thing about Chicago.  Whether it be a mom-and-pop gelato stand in Andersonville, an independent  designer boutique in West Town, or even the taco stand at Montrose Harbor (check that one out),  Chi-town is chock full of these precious little diamonds in the rough. But nothing makes me more excited than an off-the-beaten-path restaurant pumping out innovative, cutting edge cuisine amongst an impeccable interior with the kind of warm, generous staff you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere in River North.

Hello, Accanto in Logan Square.  Venturing out to the corner of Milwaukee and Talman may seem like a task to some, but whip out your inner-tourist because Accanto is worth every mile, every penny, every bite.  A nouveau Italian bistro with a focus on seafood and game, as well as a one-of-a-kind pasta and risotto menu, the selections are vast enough for any intrigued diner, but edited perfectly to give consistency to the concept.

Appetizers are usually the most playful portion to any menu and there are absolutely no carbon-copies at Accanto. The Tian de Guacamole is a must-have starter. With uber-fresh guacamole, crab meat, tomato confit, and roasted lime dressing, the flawless yet simple flavors and gorgeous presentation exemplified Chef Domenico’s innovation from the get-go.  The Portebella in Salsa di Scalgono was a portabella/polenta revelation with mascarpone flavored polenta, caramelized shallot sauce, and parmesan flakes. Need we really say more?

But it is in the entrées where a chef can (or at least should) shine and there is no disappointment with Chef Domenico’s dishes, who has cooked in the kitchens of Dubai, btw. In fact, most of what my dinner date and I experienced was nothing short of awe.   The Tonno in Crostata Di Mandorle, a flawless pan-seared Saku tuna, lightly crusted with almonds and served atop vegetarian Israeli cous cous and ginger nage basically looked like the season of spring on the plate, with fresh colors of the pink rare tuna (cooked perfectly), the bright greens of the cous cous and the golden yellow crisps of the ginger nage.  The Branzino Con Sedano Rapa, or the pan roasted Chilean sea bass with celeriac-potato mash, lobster bisque reduction, and crispy leeks was a dish that would put most new restaurants to shame.

After the last bit of fresh strawberry-vanilla gratin with strawberry coulis and Tahitian vanilla ice cream was basically licked off the plate, the last drop of our bottle of wine had been drunk (Accanto is BYO for another few weeks), and the super sweet co-owner Maria had personally thanked us for our visit, there was only one thing left to say….

Thank God I am a Chicagoan.